Santuario El Cañi and Beyond

Yesterday I hiked in El Cañi nature sanctuary. It was absolutely gorgeous. Before even arriving at the entrance, I walked past farms which were adorable baby animal sanctuaries. Since animals all give birth in September, the springtime scenery included calves staring at me through fences and little lambs jumping on and around bales of hay.

The hike went steeply uphill through forests and past trickling waterfalls.




When I stopped to snap photos of a nice view, I recognized the two lakes I could see below me as Lago Caburgua and Lago Tinquilco, which is where Parque Huerquehue starts.

I caught up with a small group of hikers and made conversation. They were Americans studying abroad in Valdivia, a college town near here. They were on an organized excursion to Pucón but wanted to stay an extra night, so I gladly gave them a business card. We hiked together for a while, then they stopped for lunch and I continued.
Eventually, I came to a refugio, where I saw the rest of the group of Americans. There were probably 30 total, and I had caught up with and met the stragglers on my way. I overheard some discussions about what to do in Pucón, so I introduced myself and offered my professional opinion (and Paradise business card). Most of the group were from Oregon and Washington, and I admit that it was nice to be around Americans for a change. After resting and eating an empanada, I joined them for the rest of the hike. After about 15 minutes, we crossed the snow line.

They were all really excited, even though some were wearing sandals and one girl was even barefoot due to terrible blisters. On the way, I talked to them about Pucón and my experience, and they all listened with eager ears. After 40 minutes in the snow, we arrived at Laguna Negra. Gorgeous of course. We sat around, took pictures, and made snow angels for a while before turning back.



I chatted with a solo New Yorker while waiting for the public bus back to Pucón, and when I expressed how much I didn't want to leave in a couple weeks he said, "well why do you have to?" It got me thinking. It was a hard question to answer. I could honestly see myself dropping everything and just staying here indefinitely. That is how much I love it. However, I'm not going to abandon home just yet. I have 11 more days to explore the country, and then I will most likely cry my way back to San Francisco.
Unfortunately, Grandma is not out of the woods yet, so Mom went to New York to be with her. I am disappointed that she won't be visiting but completely support her decision. And, there is a silver lining: she said that she would transfer her ticket to my name. That means I am officially coming back!
Traveling solo changes things. I was bummed for a minute and stared blankly at the map, but I am very happy with what I have decided to do.

Revised itinerary:
Oct 12: bus South to Puerto Varas (German settlement in the Lakes District)
Oct 13: white water rafting on Río Petrohué
Oct 14: hiking in Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales, then overnight bus North to Santiago
Oct 15: fly North to San Pedro de Atacama (driest desert in the world)
Oct 16: 4am departure for a sunrise tour of El Tatio geyser (the highest geyser field in the world), then late-afternoon tour of Valle de la Luna to watch the surreal sunset transformation of the salt flats
Oct 17: all day tour of the Altiplano Lakes, including Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos, then night tour for desert star-gazing through telescopes
Oct 18: sand boarding on the dunes of Valle de la Muerte, then fly back down to Santiago and bus West to Valparaiso
Oct 19: wander the colorful streets and hills, then 15 minute bus to Viña del Mar to relax on the beach and check out the gardens
Oct 20: day trip to hike Parque Nacional La Campana
Oct 21: bus back to Santiago, then fly all the way back to San Francisco

I am not going to Patagonia at all, but you really shouldn't rush Patagonia. And, now I get to see the North, which I hadn't planned on previously. When I come back (not if), I will do Patagonia and do it right, which occupies at least a week. The only disadvantage to my new plan is that I have to bring everything with me along the whole way, so I think I am saying goodbye to my Volkls.

I am very sad to be leaving Pucón, but having that ticket to return makes it easier. I am absolutely thrilled with everything so far and everything ahead, and I realized that I absolutely want to do this again. I am really good at this and I really enjoy this, and if I can find another gig I will go in a heartbeat. To all those who didn't believe me when I said I would stay in SF after this, you were probably right. I just want to see the world.