Puerto Varas

I cried when I said goodbye to Gloria and Leo. I couldn't even say goodbye to Volcán Villarrica, because it was a grey and cloudy day. Gloomy. But the bus ride to Puerto Varas was quite nice, including one of the most incredible sunsets I have ever seen. I sped my way through the Rivers Region and into the Lakes Region, which is famous for German influence in food and architecture and more massive glacial and volcanic lakes.
Puerto Varas is adorable and beautiful. The town sits on hills surrounding one bay of Lago Llanquihue, with snow-capped Volcanos Osorno and Cabulco nearby. Yesterday I walked around a bit, then took a bus to Saltos del Petrohué which is part of Parque Vicente Pérez Rosales (the oldest national park in Chile). A short hike in, then a series of bridges and platforms over a raging turquoise river, surrounded by the mountains and volcanos. There was another trail, Sendero los Enamorados, that followed the river, with many small trails leading off through the forests (perfect for the lovers the trail is named after). A ranger of sorts told me about a third trail and walked with me for a while (probably because he was slightly enamorado with me).




From Los Saltos, I hitch-hiked 6km to Lago Todos Los Santos, where there was a nice beach that I wandered down.


I found a trail leading into the woods and followed it, eventually stumbling upon a wide road. Lava flows tend to make very clear and flat paths, so I headed straight towards Volcán Osorno. As I climbed, my view of Lago Todos Los Santos reappeared above the trees and my view of the volcano got better and better.



While walking, I got a call from Gloria. "Ah Mara, te hecho de menos!" Yes, Glora, I miss you too. She wanted to know if I knew "otra chica lista, linda, y amable" who would want to come down to Pucón and replace me. I hope I can find someone to whom I can pass along this experience. I posted this on my facebook: "ATTENTION CHICAS: I have been called upon to find a replacement for my job in Pucón. The job is more like an extended vacation with bosses more like host parents. If you consider yourself outdoorsy and adventurous, this will be the experience of a lifetime. If you or anyone you know is interested, holler at me."
I turned around at the base of the volcano, when the sun was beginning to go down and my camera had died and I didn't want to get stranded. I walked back towards the lake and followed the lava path all the way to the beach. I walked back towards Los Saltos, eventually hitch-hiked part of the way, then walked more towards Ensenada and hitch-hiked again all the way back to Puerto Varas. Along the way, I met a Swiss girl studying Architecture in Valparaíso and a British guy who moved to Buenos Aires for a girl who didn't work out. Both of them are planning to go to Pucón, so of course I told them about Paradise and drew them maps of where it is since I had run out of business cards. It wasn't until we decided to get dinner together in town that we realized we are staying the same hostel.
Today I wanted to go rafting, but none of the outfitters will take only one person (it is still low season). The only available extreme activity was to do Río Petrohué in a double kayak with a guide behind me, but that was going to be quite expensive. Instead, I walked around Puerto Varas, doing a loop to cover their famous Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón (built in 1915) and a few of the more famous early 20th century German houses.


I got to the edge of town, where there is a park on a hill overlooking the entire massive lake.



On my way back towards the center, I took a detour along some train tracks, then down a road past a fancy hotel to walk along the beach.


I took a public bus in the opposite direction as Petrohué and Parque Rosales to Frutillar, a smaller lakeside village also with quaint German architecture. Just lovely.





I am now back at Compass del Sur, my hostel. I would like a nap but will no doubt sleep the entire bus ride to Santiago tonight.

All of my pictures can be seen here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2065268&id=1055040014&l=b38455052a