Vacación en Santiago

I'm back at Paradise after my brief break to the big city. Overall, successful. I took the bus from Pucón on Monday night, slept for much of the journey, and arrived Tuesday morning. I easily found Fabi's place, which was centrally located near Universidad Católica.

I napped, then woke to the dazzling Santiago sunshine and met up with Daniel to go to the printer about the poster. It was interesting to see him after living with his family. Last time I was in Santiago, we always spoke English. This time, we spoke Spanish. He was quite impressed, and I felt quite proud. We talked with a lady at an office who said that we should go to the actual printing location to talk to someone there. Bit of a waste, because she could have told Daniel that by email and saved us the trip. We went for ice cream, then walked around the city for a long time, chatting through the various parks. It was a beautiful day and there were tons of people out.
I returned to Fabi's before heading out for the 15 minute walk to the venue. Along the way I met some Santiaguinas (local girls) also going. When we finally found the place, there weren't many people there and everything was quite unorganized. I had bought my ticket online and was supposed to go to will call with my confirmation number, but the people at the venue refused to acknowledge anything to do with the website that sold the tickets. I ended up becoming friends with other Santiaguinas in the same situation, and everything worked out fine. One works at a winery that I might go to with my Mom, and 2 are art/design students. They were very cool.
The show was incredible. It lasted exactly one hour, then a DJ started playing kind of bad 90s techno for the after party. I stayed with the Santiaguinas for a while, then dragged my tired self home.




Wednesday, I had to go with Daniel to the other printing place. I brought my computer, since I had a feeling I would have to tweak some things. I had never been given exact measurements for what I was making. Prepare yourself for computer lingo: when I gave the file to the printing guy, he put it in Photoshop and zoomed in. He said that the resolution wasn't good enough and that it would look terrible printed the size we wanted. On my computer, it looked great even while zoomed in. I had the idea to change the paper size before creating the PDF and then put it in photoshop again. I said, give me 15 minutes. Unfortunately, when I changed the paper size, all of the formatting was lost. I basically had to recreate the entire poster again, arranging all of the photos etc. Daniel just looked over my shoulder the whole time. Some other guy came over and said, why don't you use Photoshop? I replied, I don't have it. I'm working with what I've got (what is free). I finished and put it on the printer guy's computer, and he zoomed in again. Voila! Resolution was much better, which meant that the photos wouldn't look all blurry when printed really big.
We left to go make lunch at La Casa Roja. It was nice to see some familiar faces and have them cock their heads to one side, like "I recognize her...what is she doing here?" I chatted with the rock climbing guides and the ski guys and sat around in the sunshine. It was fun to talk to them, now that I am settled in the South. All of them want to get away from the city and go on vacation to where I'm living, while I was doing the opposite. If you can live where others vacation, why not? Some complained about the weather in the South, but since I am there for so long, the rainy days don't bother me. I have plenty of time to do what there is to do, compared with the visitors who have a rigid 3 day itinerary locked down. After lunch and hanging out, Daniel went to nap, and I went to shop for a bit (that is one thing that is definitely better in the city).

I liked the vibe as a change from Pucón and also realized that I still knew my way around. Santiago is definitely newcomer-friendly. Back to Fabi's, then back to the bus station to sleep my way back down South.
On my groggy way from the bus station in Pucón, I was so glad to be home. I heard the familiar squawking of birds that I have grown so used to. I didn't have to hop on the metro to get back to my house. I just walked a few blocks, seeing familiar street dogs along the way. I embraced the chill and the clouds and the lack of smog. Vacations that are wonderful but also make you glad to come home are the best. I was greeted by Gloria who invited me to coffee, but I immediately went back to bed and was shortly joined by Runa. She is certainly glad I'm back.

When I finally woke, Gloria informed me that she had gone behind Daniel's back to a printer in Pucón who is cheaper. Basically, everything I did in Santiago was for nothing. She consulted with this new guy, who has ideas of how to make the poster better, so we will continue working on it this week. I was ready to be done, but after spending so much time it would be a waste to not have a perfect finished product. I also offered to fix their website, since the most recent update was to say that the building had survived the February earthquake and since there are a lot of errors with their English.

Mom, you are being a bit dramatic. I do not have a blood clot. I will be able to fly home. I don't need to go to the doctor. My bruise is less purple and not really growing anymore.

Afiche Final (Ojalá)

The title of this post means Final Poster (God willing). Gloria and I have been working on this to the point that we are both ready to just be done. It reminds me of college applications and Jumpstart scholarship essays, where I revised minute details that others probably wouldn't even notice until I just had to take a step back and let it be.
Here it is:


Last night I went to Mama's y Tapa's, figuring that there would be bigger crowds than usual because of the competition. And boy were there! The front bar/restaurant area was bumping, and there was a whole other bar through a back door that I hadn't even realized was there. There was a DJ and tons of people dancing and partying into the not so wee hours of the morning. My Frutilla nickname has caught on with different crowds, including some of the lift attendants at the mountain and the bartender at Mama's and random strangers trying to start up conversation. I like the alter ego, and having a nickname makes me feel like I am a part of this place. At some points last night I told people I was from Pucón. No one believed me, but it was fun to see their reactions. I like when people are surprised I am a gringa.

I have a strange lumpy painless bruise type thing on the back of my leg. I noticed it after skiing yesterday, but it grew. I think it might be from my ski socks pinching my calves, but who knew socks could be so dangerous? It is a dramatic shade of purple in person.



Gloria came up with another project for me, now that the poster is done. She made new cushions and wants to repaint all of the outdoor patio furniture. Fun fun. I think we will go to the paint store tomorrow and then she'll leave me to it. I am becoming a bit of a Jane of all trades.

I finally asked how long they have been running the hostel: 3 years total, but only 1 at this location. Before that, she was an executive secretary. Their old location was bigger and harder to maintain, and they didn't do their own tours from there. Then they found this place. Their first winter was dead, but the summer was great. This winter is much better, and I can only imagine things will keep improving. I explained why I think Chile is such a great tourist destination and how I think it is bound to blow up soon as more Americans discover it. I told them that all of my facebooking and blogging is a little bit of marketing for them, and that everyone at home wishes they could come see the "natural paradise" for themselves.

Big Bang 2010

This weekend is Big Bang Pucón 2010, a big freestyle ski/snowboard competition on Villarrica. My friend Chantelle who I met in Chillan told me that a bunch of her friends were going, so I looked into it. The weather forecast for today was great and miserable for tomorrow, so I decided to go ski today on my own and try to catch some of the events. It was really cloudy in the morning, but the snow was wonderful. I couldn't see well, but I got to explore more of the mountain and carve up more of the lava chutes. There were more people there for the competition, but I didn't actually see any jumping until the afternoon when it cleared up a bit.

Boo Clouds! I can't see!




I had a blast skiing by myself, watching the competitors fall, and snapping pictures. I also discovered the steepest run I have found in Chile. It is a lava chute off to one side of a chair, but I wasn't sure if I would be able to get back to the chair if I hopped over the cornice to get to the good stuff. I saw another guy do it, so I went for it as my last run before the lifts closed at 4:30. Amazing. I'll have to go back. It isn't Mott, but it's sweet.

Tomorrow it is supposed to rain, so the competition will probably be cancelled. I am hoping to finalize the poster. Monday night I am taking an overnight bus to Santiago to go to a Miike Snow concert on Tuesday. I will stay with Fabiane, the Brazilian linguist I met in Pucón. Then I will take the overnight bus back to Pucón on Wednesday.
Mom is coming in less than 3 weeks! As excited as I am, it means I am leaving soon. Today is the day I officially realized how much I am going to miss this place, and these people, and this experience. I could never have fathomed how good this trip would turn out to be.
I love Pucón. I love the small ski town atmosphere, with the main central street and the local charm. I love the people. I love the food. I love Gloria and Leo and the hostel and the animals. I love our family meals together. I love walking home on Colo Colo and seeing horses and mountains, and then arriving at our beautiful garden and seeing the sign for Paradise. I love the way the air tastes and how every sunset is completely different. I love that Gloria doesn't know where North is, because she claims the sun goes in circles. I love how much Gloria and Leo still love each other and how clear that is to me. I love speaking Spanish. I love having an excuse to blog and take millions of pictures every day. I love that every day is unpredictable, partly because of the constantly changing guests. I love that I was scared but did this on my own. I love that this was a way for me to do many things that make me happy all at once. I love that I haven't spent more than I needed to, but I didn't deprive myself of much because of cost. I love that I opted out of a program and instead dealt directly with my local employers/hosts. I love that in a way, I traded the more traditional 4 years of college including 1 semester in Europe for 3 years of college including 1 semester in Ghana and 2 1/2 months in Chile. (Maybe I missed out on a few Frat parties, but right now I wouldn't trade my life for anything.)
All I can feel is that it was meant to be.

Oh, and the latest photo of delicious food that Gloria made: this is kuchen, proof of the German influence in Chile.

Exploring and Wandering Pucón

I wasn't going to write anything today, but my Mom said she gets disappointed when I don't. I don't like to disappoint.

I prepared breakfast at 7:15 for 3 Israelis leaving to hike Huerquehue and later for the 2 Americans. I told the Americans about the bike ride to Ojos del Caburgua, and they went off to do it. I hung around with Runa for a bit, on email etc.


I worked more on the poster, swapping photos, perfecting layout, and consulting Gloria for approval. I am part of the group in a photo of volcano climbers, and I am in the photo we are using for the hot-springs. As Jericho said, now I can add graphic designer, photographer, PR, and model to my resumé.
I decided to go for a walk around town. I wandered down the main street of restaurants, checking out menus. I went to the post office. I went into an artisan market and bought myself sheepskin slippers, local honey, and a few other trinkets.

Look, really big cool yarn!-

I crossed the main street of town and kept going towards the volcano. I saw a monastery on a hill, so I walked towards it. I arrived at the Pucón cemetery, climbed up a hill, and found a statue and very nice views.


I got hungry. I walked back to the burrito place that had been closed yesterday. Victory! Delicioso! Thumbs up!



I walked to the main beach on the lake. I watched people fly kites and a little boy marvel over a horse.

I walked past a cool view of the volcano and had a photoshoot of myself.


I walked back to the hostel, looked at all of my photos, watched the Giants game (13-0!), chatted with the 2 Americans teaching in Santiago about their day, worked more on the poster, and discovered that there is a huge ski competition on Villarrica this weekend that I need to find a way to get tickets for.

Good morning, Mom! Enjoy your coffee! See you in 3 1/2 weeks!!!!!!!

Post Bicentennial Bliss

The Sunday after the Bicentennial, the Dutch/American couple were the only guests left. Gloria and Leo invited all of us (plus their visiting daughter and granddaughter) to a fiesta. They described dancing and music and meat and wine. Sounded fun. We drove all the way to Los Pozones, then arrived at a small community center where there were a few people sitting around. Apparently, the real fiesta didn't start until after we had to go home with the baby. So we made the best of it; we ate empanadas and sopaipillas and drank cerveza and danced cueca. Not really a big fiesta, but still cute.
Gloria and Leo are on the far right-

Isidora, daughter of Mariel/granddaughter of Gloria and Leo-

The next day was mellow, but eventually a British guy arrived and said that two Israelis he had met would also be coming shortly. I consider one of my duties to keep any guest company if there is no one else around, so Mike and I chatted for a while. He is here on business to do with medical photography/biology/genetics/not sure. At the end of his hellishly busy 2 weeks, he treated himself to a week of pure vacation. He really hoped to snowboard. I easily convinced him to go to Termas Los Pozones that night once the other two guys arrived, and also arranged their volcano climb for the following day. They went to the hotsprings, and I went to the bar for Monday Night Football.

Tuesday turned out to be bad weather for climbing the volcano, so the guys went snowboarding instead. I wanted to go too, but conditions just weren't tempting. Also, other guests (2 more from the same program as the 4 teaching English in Santiago) were arriving and I wanted to attend to them. A new development: a guy came by to look at my poster design and discuss printing. Gloria wants to print it really big and attach a pocket for small flyers. I think she wants to put it in other hostels all around Chile. We keep tweaking it slightly, but I am still really happy and really proud that I will make a lasting contribution to the hostel. Leo was adorable and told me I should be a graphic designer. Other news of the day: I moved rooms again. I am very happy. I now have my own room (with a bunk bed above me, ready for Momma!) and my own bathroom. I am separate from the rest of the guest rooms, but not in the other house with Gloria and Leo. I am right next to the dining room and kitchen, which makes everything easy. When I come to greet guests, I no longer appear to be overly friendly and involved, because I no longer seem like just another guest. But after transferring my stuff, another mellow day with Runa, who has enjoyed recovering from surgery in my bed.


But then things were looking up! Wednesday's weather forecast seemed to be okay, and Gloria said I could go with Mike and the 2 Israelis (Ido and Kvetch [not really, but I can't remember his name]). I set them up with equipment and started to make a pile for myself, but I wanted to double check. Gloria said "no, not tomorrow." I'm not sure whether she changed her mind or I misunderstood, but I was really bummed. I asked if I could hop on their transport and ski by myself, and Gloria said, "Claro!" Yay! The two Israelis passed out early, so I kept Mike company for his last night in Chile (not spent on a bus), then set up breakfast and all of my ski clothes before going to bed.

And then this magical magical day. Honestly, one of the best days of my life. All of the stars aligned and everything just worked out in my favor. I just can't get over it. I guess for every few days laying low at the hostel, I am rewarded with a once-in-a-lifetime day like today.
I woke up at 6:15 to prepare the rest of breakfast, but it was raining so the volcano climb was cancelled and I got to sleep for another hour. Gloria woke me to say that volcano climb was back on, because the rain had stopped. (Best of both worlds: extra sleep, but activities not cancelled.) I fixed breakfast and got ready to ski, then our guide (Huino) showed up. He said that I should climb with them! He also pushed me to take my skis, which I wasn't sure about. I didn't want to climb in my ski boots, but they are heavy to carry. Mike was carrying up his snowboard, so I finally agreed to take the extra challenge. I scrambled to get my volcano gear prepped and put on my hiking boots, then I got to sit shotgun in the van as the "assistant guide". I even had to sign in as such at the National Park office.
When we got to the base of the ski area, Huino helped me situate my backpack, then just took my skis and attached them to his. Sometimes I feel guilty at what being nice and having a sweet smile can get me. But hey, I didn't ask. He offered. I wasn't about to fight him on it. We started climbing (not taking the first chairlift like last time) and kept on going for hours.

Can you tell where the snow stops and clouds begin?


We had every kind of weather. Rain in the morning before climbing, then total sunshine, then clouds and wind, then more sunshine. I stripped down to leggings again, but kept on my hat for flavor. All of the climbing groups tend to stop in the same places for brief breaks, and Huino liked introducing me to other guides he knows as "mi frutillita", his sweet little strawberry sidekick. He also told everyone that I was from Pucón, and we had a little dialogue down to convince them with both of us using Chilean slang. I loved it.

We had to put crampons on much much sooner than last time, when we only needed them for the last hour because of the icy summit. The conditions today required crampons after the first hour. They are heavy, which makes the climb more difficult, but we kept on trekking. After maybe 4 hours, the guides announced that there was too much toxic gas blowing down from the volcano to continue to the crater. Usually, just a little gas rises straight up, but today it was blowing towards us.

We waited to watch the direction of the smoke to see if things would improve enough. If we couldn't reach the crater, I really didn't mind. I was ready to ski, and Mike didn't even think he could continue to the crater if he wanted to. And, the more we climbed, the worse/icier it would be to ski down. (Best of both worlds: I'm not the one to say I'm tired and I've already seen the crater and I want to ski down, but that is exactly what I get.) The two Israelis and Huino decided to stay an additional 15 minutes to wait it out, but Mike and I were hoping to take the lifts at the ski area for the rest of the day after the initial descent of the top of the volcano.

We took off. It was super crusty on top and hard to edge with our already sore legs. Then, we went over a ridge, and found heaven. An entire massive bowl covered in completely untouched powder. All mine! This is what I have been waiting for. I've tried not to complain about the snow, because I am so grateful to be here and just want to make the best of it. But today was epic. True powder junkies live and die for this stuff. I just let myself go and felt weightless and listened to the sounds of the snow spraying behind my tracks. And it was all mine. Literally Mike and I were the only ones. I just made huge wide swooping turns, taking my time and occupying the entire bowl and smiling ear to ear. Eventually we got to the top of a lift that is never open, and I took the lead (past a sign that said "Danger: Off- Piste", but that's where all the good stuff is). We descended into one of the famous lava chute half-pipe/gullies, and just had a blast. I stopped for a second and said to myself, this might just be the coolest thing I have ever done and the best day of my life.
We kept going into the main ski area and stopped at the lodge for a celebratory pisco sour. Cheers to an amazing amazing day! Then back to the mountain. We hadn't bought ski passes, but no one asked for them so we got to ride the rest of the day for free! And this time, there were many many more lifts open! The snow became a bit slushy as the afternoon passed, but there was plenty of snow. This season isn't going anywhere too fast (that's aimed at you, Momma!). I showed Mike parts of the mountain he hadn't found (an epic cornice to jump off) and he showed me parts of the mountain I hadn't found (a beautiful area of trees). Perfect ski buddies.





While riding through another lava chute, I heard someone shout "Frutilliiiiitttaaaaaa!" It was Huino, followed by the two Israelis sliding down on their bums. We acknowledged them but kept going. Powder waits for no one. As the day wore on, Mike and I admitted to our dying legs, but we still managed to last until the lifts closed at 4:30. Soon after, the three others found us at the car, and we returned to Paradise where Gloria greeted us with smiles and beers.
And um, just to state this explicitly: I paid $0 for the day's activities. My only expenses were the groceries I bought for the turkey sandwich and trail mix I packed for lunch.

Soon after returning to the hostel, Mike had to catch a bus, but he desperately wanted a burrito first and I have been wanting one too. I thought, what a perfect end to a perfect day. Unfortunately, the place I have been wanting to try was closed. He went off towards the bus station empty handed, just as the sunset turned one entire side of the volcano pink. After taking a moment to admire and also getting over my burrito disappointment, I stopped by a bakery for my first empanada de ave (chicken). I finally understand the craze! Let me explain. The classic empanada de pino is made of ground beef, sauteed onions, one or two black olives, a hard boiled egg, and spices, all wrapped in dough and either baked or fried. Because I do not eat beef, I have only tried cheese empanadas. Queso doesn't cut it. As good as their artisan cheeses are, it just isn't the same. Today, I had a chicken one and it was amaaazing. The onions and spices and egg and olive just tie everything together perfectly. Then I indulged in a slice of lemon meringue pie, which I had heard is to die for, and which I am finishing right now.
Bliss. Pure bliss.

Videos of the volcano:

Bicentennial Bustle and Bust

Crowds came. Hustle and bustle. Breakfasts for ten are quite a production, especially on mornings after nights at the bar and when everyone must leave for climbing the volcano by 7 and Gloria doesn't wake up until 6:45. I juggled slicing and toasting an entire loaf of bread and re-filling marmalade bowls and butter plates and coffee pots, all quite groggy. I've been busy, but not really busy in a way that would make for interesting blogging. No new pictures of outdoor adventures; just interesting conversations, some with 4 Americans teaching English in Santiago, 6 Belgians doing a semester abroad, and a couple who met in Australia and have been doing long distance between the Bay Area and Holland for 6 years.
I almost got to do the volcano as an unofficial assistant guide, but having me would have required an additional actual assistant guide and none were available. But as the season picks up, we should be doing more volcano trips at the hostel instead of through other agencies (we have all of the gear and hire our own guide), so I'm sure I will have more opportunities.
Today was the bicentennial, but it rained constantly so parades were cancelled. I went out to a discoteca last night with some of the Belgians, and Chileans do things late (girls get in free until 1am, so that is when we arrived). I didn't mind having the day to sleep and relax. And I'm hoping another day of constant rain means more snow, which means more lifts might be open when I get back to the volcano to ski (although I'm not sure when that will be).
The guests have been very nice. I am often treated to wine, beer, extra dinner, bites of chocolate, card games, new music, and pleasant company. The Belgians left this morning, and I already miss them. They added some young blood to the place. Tonight the older Dutch/American couple took me out for dinner and ice cream. If you travel with people constantly, it can be easy to get bored with them. The various groups like having a fresh face as part of the crowd, just to spice things up.

Termas Los Pozones

Sure enough, I woke up at 7:30 and was immediately told to go back to sleep. Rain rain rain all night, so no Huerquehue for the ladies. I re-awoke an hour later and set up breakfast. Fabi woke first, then the others in stages. I sat with them and chatted, although I had eaten earlier. I loved it. I wondered whether the ladies would find it at all uncomfortable that I was serving them, after hanging out more as friends the previous day and night, but the transition was seamless. I told Gloria I would like to help out with breakfast more mornings.

And, during breakfast, Paula (Spanish lady from the waterfall who I gave a business card to) came by to check things out and see if we had room for her. She is the final guest to make us officially completely booked up!
With the rain, the only real option was hotsprings. ¡Qué pena! We considered going to some Japanese style ones that are quite far and more expensive, but we ended up taking the public bus to Los Pozones, where I had driven to with the folks from the hostel next door. Last time, I went at night with Chantelle and 3 guys and we each brought a 6-pack or so of cerveza. This time, we considered bringing wine but forgot. Even so, very nice. Relaxing, beautiful, wonderful.




Upon returning to Paradise, I was told that 4 Americans had arrived and I should talk to them about activities. Done and done. I love the role that I have fallen into. I love being part of the hospitality of the place. I love the reputation that Paradise has, and I love that it is cheaper than most places that don't even offer breakfast. I believe in the hostel, which makes me even more excited to do my job well.