The Sunday after the Bicentennial, the Dutch/American couple were the only guests left. Gloria and Leo invited all of us (plus their visiting daughter and granddaughter) to a fiesta. They described dancing and music and meat and wine. Sounded fun. We drove all the way to Los Pozones, then arrived at a small community center where there were a few people sitting around. Apparently, the real fiesta didn't start until after we had to go home with the baby. So we made the best of it; we ate empanadas and sopaipillas and drank cerveza and danced cueca. Not really a big fiesta, but still cute.
Gloria and Leo are on the far right-
Isidora, daughter of Mariel/granddaughter of Gloria and Leo-
The next day was mellow, but eventually a British guy arrived and said that two Israelis he had met would also be coming shortly. I consider one of my duties to keep any guest company if there is no one else around, so Mike and I chatted for a while. He is here on business to do with medical photography/biology/genetics/not sure. At the end of his hellishly busy 2 weeks, he treated himself to a week of pure vacation. He really hoped to snowboard. I easily convinced him to go to Termas Los Pozones that night once the other two guys arrived, and also arranged their volcano climb for the following day. They went to the hotsprings, and I went to the bar for Monday Night Football.
Tuesday turned out to be bad weather for climbing the volcano, so the guys went snowboarding instead. I wanted to go too, but conditions just weren't tempting. Also, other guests (2 more from the same program as the 4 teaching English in Santiago) were arriving and I wanted to attend to them. A new development: a guy came by to look at my poster design and discuss printing. Gloria wants to print it really big and attach a pocket for small flyers. I think she wants to put it in other hostels all around Chile. We keep tweaking it slightly, but I am still really happy and really proud that I will make a lasting contribution to the hostel. Leo was adorable and told me I should be a graphic designer. Other news of the day: I moved rooms again. I am very happy. I now have my own room (with a bunk bed above me, ready for Momma!) and my own bathroom. I am separate from the rest of the guest rooms, but not in the other house with Gloria and Leo. I am right next to the dining room and kitchen, which makes everything easy. When I come to greet guests, I no longer appear to be overly friendly and involved, because I no longer seem like just another guest. But after transferring my stuff, another mellow day with Runa, who has enjoyed recovering from surgery in my bed.
But then things were looking up! Wednesday's weather forecast seemed to be okay, and Gloria said I could go with Mike and the 2 Israelis (Ido and Kvetch [not really, but I can't remember his name]). I set them up with equipment and started to make a pile for myself, but I wanted to double check. Gloria said "no, not tomorrow." I'm not sure whether she changed her mind or I misunderstood, but I was really bummed. I asked if I could hop on their transport and ski by myself, and Gloria said, "Claro!" Yay! The two Israelis passed out early, so I kept Mike company for his last night in Chile (not spent on a bus), then set up breakfast and all of my ski clothes before going to bed.
And then this magical magical day. Honestly, one of the best days of my life. All of the stars aligned and everything just worked out in my favor. I just can't get over it. I guess for every few days laying low at the hostel, I am rewarded with a once-in-a-lifetime day like today.
I woke up at 6:15 to prepare the rest of breakfast, but it was raining so the volcano climb was cancelled and I got to sleep for another hour. Gloria woke me to say that volcano climb was back on, because the rain had stopped. (Best of both worlds: extra sleep, but activities not cancelled.) I fixed breakfast and got ready to ski, then our guide (Huino) showed up. He said that I should climb with them! He also pushed me to take my skis, which I wasn't sure about. I didn't want to climb in my ski boots, but they are heavy to carry. Mike was carrying up his snowboard, so I finally agreed to take the extra challenge. I scrambled to get my volcano gear prepped and put on my hiking boots, then I got to sit shotgun in the van as the "assistant guide". I even had to sign in as such at the National Park office.
When we got to the base of the ski area, Huino helped me situate my backpack, then just took my skis and attached them to his. Sometimes I feel guilty at what being nice and having a sweet smile can get me. But hey, I didn't ask. He offered. I wasn't about to fight him on it. We started climbing (not taking the first chairlift like last time) and kept on going for hours.
Can you tell where the snow stops and clouds begin?
We had every kind of weather. Rain in the morning before climbing, then total sunshine, then clouds and wind, then more sunshine. I stripped down to leggings again, but kept on my hat for flavor. All of the climbing groups tend to stop in the same places for brief breaks, and Huino liked introducing me to other guides he knows as "mi frutillita", his sweet little strawberry sidekick. He also told everyone that I was from Pucón, and we had a little dialogue down to convince them with both of us using Chilean slang. I loved it.
We had to put crampons on much much sooner than last time, when we only needed them for the last hour because of the icy summit. The conditions today required crampons after the first hour. They are heavy, which makes the climb more difficult, but we kept on trekking. After maybe 4 hours, the guides announced that there was too much toxic gas blowing down from the volcano to continue to the crater. Usually, just a little gas rises straight up, but today it was blowing towards us.
We waited to watch the direction of the smoke to see if things would improve enough. If we couldn't reach the crater, I really didn't mind. I was ready to ski, and Mike didn't even think he could continue to the crater if he wanted to. And, the more we climbed, the worse/icier it would be to ski down. (Best of both worlds: I'm not the one to say I'm tired and I've already seen the crater and I want to ski down, but that is exactly what I get.) The two Israelis and Huino decided to stay an additional 15 minutes to wait it out, but Mike and I were hoping to take the lifts at the ski area for the rest of the day after the initial descent of the top of the volcano.
We took off. It was super crusty on top and hard to edge with our already sore legs. Then, we went over a ridge, and found heaven. An entire massive bowl covered in completely untouched powder. All mine! This is what I have been waiting for. I've tried not to complain about the snow, because I am so grateful to be here and just want to make the best of it. But today was epic. True powder junkies live and die for this stuff. I just let myself go and felt weightless and listened to the sounds of the snow spraying behind my tracks. And it was all mine. Literally Mike and I were the only ones. I just made huge wide swooping turns, taking my time and occupying the entire bowl and smiling ear to ear. Eventually we got to the top of a lift that is never open, and I took the lead (past a sign that said "Danger: Off- Piste", but that's where all the good stuff is). We descended into one of the famous lava chute half-pipe/gullies, and just had a blast. I stopped for a second and said to myself, this might just be the coolest thing I have ever done and the best day of my life.
We kept going into the main ski area and stopped at the lodge for a celebratory pisco sour. Cheers to an amazing amazing day! Then back to the mountain. We hadn't bought ski passes, but no one asked for them so we got to ride the rest of the day for free! And this time, there were many many more lifts open! The snow became a bit slushy as the afternoon passed, but there was plenty of snow. This season isn't going anywhere too fast (that's aimed at you, Momma!). I showed Mike parts of the mountain he hadn't found (an epic cornice to jump off) and he showed me parts of the mountain I hadn't found (a beautiful area of trees). Perfect ski buddies.
While riding through another lava chute, I heard someone shout "Frutilliiiiitttaaaaaa!" It was Huino, followed by the two Israelis sliding down on their bums. We acknowledged them but kept going. Powder waits for no one. As the day wore on, Mike and I admitted to our dying legs, but we still managed to last until the lifts closed at 4:30. Soon after, the three others found us at the car, and we returned to Paradise where Gloria greeted us with smiles and beers.
And um, just to state this explicitly: I paid $0 for the day's activities. My only expenses were the groceries I bought for the turkey sandwich and trail mix I packed for lunch.
Soon after returning to the hostel, Mike had to catch a bus, but he desperately wanted a burrito first and I have been wanting one too. I thought, what a perfect end to a perfect day. Unfortunately, the place I have been wanting to try was closed. He went off towards the bus station empty handed, just as the sunset turned one entire side of the volcano pink. After taking a moment to admire and also getting over my burrito disappointment, I stopped by a bakery for my first empanada de ave (chicken). I finally understand the craze! Let me explain. The classic empanada de pino is made of ground beef, sauteed onions, one or two black olives, a hard boiled egg, and spices, all wrapped in dough and either baked or fried. Because I do not eat beef, I have only tried cheese empanadas. Queso doesn't cut it. As good as their artisan cheeses are, it just isn't the same. Today, I had a chicken one and it was amaaazing. The onions and spices and egg and olive just tie everything together perfectly. Then I indulged in a slice of lemon meringue pie, which I had heard is to die for, and which I am finishing right now.
Bliss. Pure bliss.
Videos of the volcano:
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